“The air soft as that of Seville in April, and so fragrant that it was delicious to breathe it.”

— Christopher Columbus.

For a taste of true Southern Spain, one only has to get to Sevilla, where the number of churches equal that of orange trees and the streets are a heady mix of orange blossom and incense de alma.

It is a city on the plain of the Guadalquiver river, full of sun and a uniquely relaxed lifestyle, where bullfighters are celebrities and Sevillanos are brought to tears at the sight of their two virgins Macarena and Esperanza de Triana.

Things to see...

If you have time for only one stop in Sevilla, than it must be the Alcazar -- which is akin to Granda's Alhambra, but minus the crowds. In fact, the Alcazar is the one tourist spot to which locals will readily agree to visit. And the reason is clear: the Alcazar is a relaxing stroll through a collection of royal palaces (some still in use today) of various architectural influences -- from mudéjar to gothic -- and cool corridors and sunny patios. And the luxurious gardens may be the siren that takes your afternoon.

The Sevilla Cathedral is massive (the largest Gothic cathedral in the world) and houses a staggering amount of gold. It also happens to be where Christopher Columbus is buried. For an extra fee, you can climb up the Giralda tower for a view of the entire city.

Whether you are a fan of bullfighting or not, the ring -- the Plaza de Toros -- is magnificent. (But, if you are squeamish, perhaps skip a visit during bullfighting season?)

If you happen to be a fan of Lawrence of Arabia and/or Star Wars -- or better yet simply of beauty itself -- visit the Plaza de España in the Parque de María Luisa. Built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Expo, the plaza was used to showcase the country's industry and technology exhibits. It's now home to government offices.

Eating...

Sevilla is full of food. At most tapas bars in Sevilla, the bill is tallied up in chalk on the bar as orders are placed. Some things to enjoy -- along with a glass of fino (dry sherry), manzanilla sherry, vino, or a caña -- include jamón and queso (of course) but also espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas), salmorejo, and caña de lomo (cured pork tenderloin).

At La Moderna, try the chipirones a la plancha (small grilled squid) and the salmorejo.
Then head over to Bodega Santa Cruz (catty-corner from Moderna) for another beer and, if you are still hungry, a montadito, a small (and delicious) sandwich filled with whatever you want: cheese, salmon, sobrasada, calamares, tortilla, anchoas y Queso, chorizo picante. Sobrasada in particular is good for a hangover :)
If you are on the walking tour of old Sevilla (routes given out by the tourist office), stop at Casa Romón near the Alcazar for solomillo iberico al whiskey con patatas.

And for a drink...

in the afternoon, go to Plaza de El Salvador for a beer in the sun with a big crowd of Sevillanos, and try some of the best potato chips in town from the stand in the corner (just look around, you won't miss it.) .
in the evening, head to the rooftop bar, El Eme Hotel. Their specialties are an exceptional view of the Giralda tower and an array of mojitos.